"Friday night bivy at the glacier below Huber, 4am start up the glacier. Stopped for 30 minutes to wait for daylight. Summit of Huber by 6:30am. We took the steeper icy left side of the slope to the summit, simul climbing with 4 screws total. Down climbed the ice the same way. Took a break on the saddle between the Victoria Gullies. Then picked the middle gully, easy but loose climbing to the ridge, doesn’t take long. Summited Victoria around 9. That’s when it gets a touch harder and I took a fall. Did not make it to North Vic, due to many sprains. 317’ long line rescue, we were a few hundred meters short of completing that traverse. There is a rope and some new bolts on the LL side of the ridge where we bivied. " — justinj • Sep 20, 2025

"Victoria - Huber traverse 28.3km with 2,300m gain in 17 hours car-to-car Victoria North Peak except for a short glacier crossing, very straight-forward moderate to difficult scramble. Not sure why it's marked as 5.3. Mt Victoria North to South (main) peak traverse, heinous and very loose 1.3km, spent 3:40hrs to get it down. Did two rappels and the rest was mainly difficult scramble with complex route finding on unstable terrain. Mt Huber Scrambled down the first two rap stations and did the last rappel due to ice and snow in the lower gully. Had to do a bergschrund crossing before getting to the glacier. Huber north face was snowy and stable. Exit via Huber ledges requires some easy to moderate route finding but no rope needed. My initial estimate was about 15 hours (5 to Vic North, 5 on the ridge and 5 to descend with tagging Huber). Didn't realize that the exit will take longer. A bus shuttle would definitely help." — alexp • Sep 17, 2020

"4am start, glacier was in good condition to cross. Another group above is sent some missiles down at us from above. Serious rockfall hazards on this route. Went over the 5.3 crux and rappels on the way down. Perfect weather for it" — ken_hercules • Aug 18, 2017

"Left Calgary at 2:30am, trailhead at 4:30. Took a wrong turn in the morning after the teahouse and backtracked ~1km. A weak freeze overnight but decent conditions on the glacier with fairly well bridged crevasses. The shrund was a little challenging to get over - I was glad to have a technical ice tool. Nasty rockfall from parties above on the scrambling section above the bergshrund. We walked along the summit cornice neve and onto the North glacier of Mt Vic, the terrain is easy but insanely exposed. We regained the ridge and scrambled to the crux, we pitched out the crux and both found it more challenging than 5.3 (albeit not much more). The smoke cleared through the day and we have great views from the summit." — BobbyG • Aug 18, 2017