"Base camp was the Forks backcountry campground. Weather: smoky haze with increasing clouds. Dry. Approach - rushing Creek in a hazardous Boulder field. Then headwall crux had either a rockfall prone chimney or a series of exposed narrow ledges. Above headwall ... extensive scree, boulder Moraine field, and bare striated bedrock. Traverse to climber's right side of Lyautey west Glacier. Some travel on low slope angle edge of blue Glacier ice. Microspikes helped. Angled left up huge Scree slopes to a series of exposed chimney gullies and climbed up. Found a wider scree gully above this and up to summit rock. Garmin GPS InReach said 3042 m elevation at the summit ,not 3081. Signed summit log and went down upper scree gully , around some rock outcrops and to the top of the exposed west side gully chimneys. Climbed partway down but traversed skiers left to a wider southwest facing scree and cliff slab gully that was relatively easy-moderate scrambling downhill to across the huge scree slope . Followed skiers right side of the west Glacier down and then back across the giant field of boulders. Found the headwall narrow ledges much more tricky going down climbing. Slippery and e..." — geoffc • Aug 6, 2021

"Got this one in before the snow. Impressive peak, the scramble is just okay. Too much rubble to be super fun. We ascended the north glacier before rejoining Kane's route. 11hrs." — mike_rogers81 • Sep 9, 2018