"Neil Colgan Hut via Scheisser Ledges - July 26-28 2019. The ledges are dry except for 1 unavoidable exposed snow slope. Although we did get off route on the way up - the entire route is clearly marked with red paint circles and cairns. If you don't see those for a while you're probably off route. The path is generally very well defined, very obvious on descent. The 2nd and upper chain has been chopped and is gone- we solo'd up that section and it was a bit tough with full shank boots and heavy packs (on the way back we did 2 30m rappels). There are new double bolted anchors with rap rings at all 4 rappel sections which was great. We did not use 2 of them, and felt OK to downclimb. 6 hours car to hut including getting a bit lost. Travel on the glaciers was easy all weekend with little foot pen. Only when approaching in front of Fay was there some post holing but not for long. We went up Tonsa Peak shortly after arriving and had a tough go, the rock is batshit rotten, and route finding was tricky, with the "book of lies" not saying much of anything useful, it actually says "no difficulties"..ha... We thought the LH peak was the summit, it is not, and it is harder to reach than the tr..." — jakefinnan • Jul 26, 2019