Region
Highlights
Routes
8 summits • 2.0 km • 251 m gain • 7 hr 19 min
1 summit • 28.3 km • 2,033 m gain • 16 hr 58 min
1 summit • 34.5 km • 2,168 m gain • 10 hr 4 min
Latest summits
"Victoria - Huber traverse
28.3km with 2,300m gain in 17 hours car-to-car
Victoria North Peak
except for a short glacier crossing, very straight-forward moderate to difficult scramble. Not sure why it's marked as 5.3.
Mt Victoria
North to South (main) peak traverse, heinous and very loose 1.3km, spent 3:40hrs to get it down. Did two rappels and the rest was mainly difficult scramble with complex route finding on unstable terrain.
Mt Huber
Scrambled down the first two rap stations and did the last rappel due to ice and snow in the lower gully. Had to do a bergschrund crossing before getting to the glacier. Huber north face was snowy and stable. Exit via Huber ledges requires some easy to moderate route finding but no rope needed.
My initial estimate was about 15 hours (5 to Vic North, 5 on the ridge and 5 to descend with tagging Huber). Didn't realize that the exit will take longer. A bus shuttle would definitely help." — alexp • Sep 17, 2020
"Drove from Edmonton after work, parked and walked to the bivy site on the toe of the glacier. Got lost in around the Tea House looking for the path in the trees. Arrived at the toe around 1 am. We woke up at 6 am and left for a summit attempt at 7 am. At this time it was already +20 on the glacier and was making the snow very soft. We passed a wonky bridge over a crevasse and continued on towards the black band. Once we got there we discussed out next move, and the team decided that it might be better to turn around as it took longer then expected. We checked out the bergschrund and at that time we decided to turn back around." — paulhusak195 • Jul 28, 2018
"waited through the morning storm, started @ 11am, just to return when another storm appeared on the horizon. Though the second one didn't start till 7pm but the afternoon brought high winds that would blow us from the ridge." — alexp • Jun 25, 2018
"CSMC trip, attempt
Emergency preparedness, a case study of a fall.
Disclaimer: this is a personal experience sharing with an intention that one makes his/her own conclusions and decisions.
Had a long planned 3-day trip to the Abbot Pass hut on Sep 8-10.
As planned, started for Victoria before dawn on Saturday at 5:45am. We did half of the route (GPS readings were 2.15km with 300m gain) and came to the Sickle with no issues. There was not much snow there, so decided to down climb on dry rock. The whole group except of me (4 people) went fine. I was the last one to do it. In the middle of a chimney, there was a a large rock (1-1,5m) that seemed and was stable; I did double check on it. Though, in the process of down climbing over it, it moved, dragged me and another rock down. Got a hit on my left shin, ankle, thumb and fourth finger. Believe, my first two thoughts were:
- f@ck, my leg…
- sh@t, my wife will kill me…
After hopping to a flatter spot when the rest were waiting for me, did some first aid. Realized in the process that got a cut on my thumb and half of the nail got smashed. Then simply laid down and pretty much couldn't move for about an hour.
In retrospect..." — alexp • Sep 9, 2017