"Climbed the SE ridge as a group of 6 for ivos birthday. Melissa and i opted to simul climb the technical sections. The hand traverse is airy amd enjoyable. 2 pitons made it feel quite protected. Wicked day out" — ken_hercules • Jun 10, 2023

"South Ridge. This was a second attempt for Chelsea and I. This time we brought friends for a very enjoyable day with great weather. We biked from the Troll Falls TH and bushwhacked the most direct route we could find to the treeline. Above TL, we hiked to the first chimney. This was a great spot for a rest, so we racked our climbing gear before proceeding. After the 1st chimney, we found easy scrambling that brought us to a second chimney involving a few difficult moves. We roped up for the ridge as it narrowed, involved climbing through an exposed notch, and over the famous gendarme. Protection included a few cam placements and slinging a few natural features. The next section took us a little time to agree on the best line to gain the ridge. This is where Chelsea and I found an alternate (and harder) route in 2022. We ended up finding and taking the exact start shown in Andrew Nugara’s 2005 trip report. I only places a few pieces, but because of my zigzagging line, the rope drag became a nuisance. If we do this one again, we will try to start earlier on the lower part of the ridge. I used an existing piton and slung a large feature to build an anchor for the rest ..." — ivo • Jun 10, 2023

"Got an early start to the day. We chose this time of year as the Kananaskis river should be reasonably low. Parked at the Lorette Ponds day site, crossed the highway and headed straight through the forest until we hit the river. Picked a good spot to cross, and then headed straight up the drainage/avalanche trail. Pretty straightforward but a long and grinding scree slog until you reach the col. Once we got there the winds picked up big time and temperature dropped significantly. We really put the hammer down on the final 800M of ridge line. We actually dropped a bit below it to the right so we wouldn't get blown off it. Happy to get this one off the list!" — danradu • Sep 25, 2020

"Great climb up on the SE ridge. We roped up for the main cruxes as well as for an easy but exposed step before them. Not major difficulties on a dry ridge. Descent through the main gully was ok, just a wet down climb at one spot close to a small water fall." — Pablovanz • Jun 7, 2020

"Got started early, Doug parked at Lorette Ponds. By 6am we had forded the Kananaskis river (pretty much waste deep). Up the steep gully (Nugara route), and over to the summit." — BertB • May 14, 2015

"Climbed the south ridge. Took what was referred to as the "inferior" route around the notch. It was pretty sketch. Beautiful day, fun climb. Took a bit of a ride on the river on the way out. Wet rope is heavy." — ChadKnight • Jul 7, 2012