Region
Most climbed route
Highlights
Routes
1 summit • 15.7 km • 756 m gain • 5 hr 51 min
1 summit • 37.7 km • 2,772 m gain • 48 hr 3 min
Latest summits
"Type I fun: 71km (45km on foot; 2 x 13km bike), 4,000m gain, 5 summits (4 of each are 11k+) = Lyells Traverse
CSMC trip, had a superb trip with great group and perfect weather.
Aug 2: long drive from Calgary on early morning; Bush FSR (search for "Log Dump Road, Golden, BC" on Google maps) was in surprisingly great condition, actually better than Spray Lakes road (hwy 742) lately. There were some changes in markings though: at 61.5km there is a junction and a "main" road goes to the left across the lake; keep right/straight, kilometre marks will reset and Valenciennes Rd turnoff at exactly 7km mark, there are 2 newer signs for that. Another 11km brought us to a junction with a washed out section (straight) and new logging cut on the right, marked as "Navy". After carefully finding few spots where to leave cars at (mind that the logging is active there and you don't want to find your car being hit by a logging truck afterwards) and putting chickenwire, the water crossing there was a crux of the bike ride as it was the widest and deepest one. The other crossings were much easier and few of them even rideable.
Our first night was at Icefall Lodge, a really neat place with well..." — alexp • Aug 4, 2019
"Had a 4 am start from camp. (Attended ACC section camp to the Lyells). Forgot helmet in the morning and then couldn't find backpack when retrieving helmet from basecamp. Lost an hour and was very frustrating. Saw bear tracks on the way to Lyell glacier. 3 lemons. But we continued anyway. Made it to the Lyell 3-4 col at 9 am. The climb was essentially ice bouldering on WI2-3 the whole way. The rock step was very scary and chossy. IT was like Janga blocks the whole way up the rock pitch. Climbed it as quickly as possible as did not want to spend any extra time in there at all as was scared the whole part of the gully would collapse. Belayed second up on ice screws. Traversed over to Lyell 5 after summitting Lyell 4. Was tricky finding the route on the rock ridge to the snow. Once on the snow however, it was very quick travelling. Great excellent blue bird day so it made it for quite an exciting day and forgiving given that we were slow to ascend Lyell 4. Very fast up Lyell 5 once across the rock ridge. Out of all the 5 Lyells. The North ridge of Lyell 5 had the best and most stable rock. Essentially a steep scramble. Did not have to belay. " — dkmountainman • Aug 9, 2012
"First summitted Lyell 5. Then traversed way around the glacier to avoid any crevasses and then headed straight for the Lyell 1-2 col. Left our gear at the 1-2 col and then summitted Lyell 1. came back to the col for a snack then headed for Lyell 2. After taking a whiteout shot at Lyell 2 we headed for Lyell 3. There was a large shrund that we had to avoid on climber's right and climb some steep snow to gain the last part where it levels off towards the summit of Lyell 3. " — dkmountainman • Aug 5, 2012