"Leaving the Hut at 6am, we watched a nice sunrise from the Fay glacier, Ascended the west ridge route,.The snow couloir was quite soupy from the overnight rain and no freeze, although penetration on the glacier itself was only ankle deep. Due to conditions we pitched out the couloir, in 2 full 60 meter pitches from the bergschrunds. Also pulled out the rope for a couple of the more exposed rock bands, happy to have brought along a few cams. We were greeted at the summit by a couple incoming thunderstorm cells, so we quickly made our way down. 3 bolted rappels brought us back the snow couloir, which we then did another 3 60 meter rappels to the base. The first being a conveniently located rock horn on on a pillar on climbers right. The other 2 from v-threads, finishing by rapping over the 3-4 open bergschrunds. Luckily the only weather that actually hit us we was at the base of the snow couloir, which quickly passed with only minor hail and a couple closer than comfortable lightning strikes. " — ken_hercules • Aug 15, 2022