Climb all 10 peaks featured on the back of the classic Canadian $20 bill -- the famous "Twenty Dollar View". These peaks lie in the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind Moraine Lake in Banff National Park, straddling the border of Alberta and British Columbia. This is a classic mountain traverse, not overly intricate route finding (just stay on the ridge!), lots of technical down-climbing, and some heart swallowing exposure from time to time. The final notch in 'n' out then in 'n' out feels way out there. Can be done in both directions. Deltaform is the crux of the traverse at 5.5 with a rope useful for climbing and rappelling.
Highest peak
Deltaform Mountain
11,233 ft / 3,423 m
Most prominent peak
Deltaform Mountain
2,697 ft / 822 m prom
Most summited peak
Mount Bowlen
11 summits
Most difficult peak
no info yet
Difficulty breakdown
no info yet
Highlights
- Generally the approach into the Valley of the Ten Peaks is via the Lakeside Trail on Morraine Lake up through the Perrin Route (perhaps 5.6 climbing, protected by a large chain).
- The glacier can be traversed to the Neil Colgan Hut (the highest habitable structure in Canada) or the routes on Fay can be started from the Perrin route directly. Alternately, ascend the Sheisser Ledges on the West side of Bowlen. See "Selected Alpine Climbs" for details.
- Most parties will bag a number of the Ten Peaks in a day, as all but Fay and Deltaform are scrambles. Many bivy when attempting the full ten peak traverse
Latest summits
"Leaving the Hut at 6am, we watched a nice sunrise from the Fay glacier, Ascended the west ridge route,.The snow couloir was quite soupy from the overnight rain and no freeze, although penetration on the glacier itself was only ankle deep. Due to conditions we pitched out the couloir, in 2 full 60 meter pitches from the bergschrunds. Also pulled out the rope for a couple of the more exposed rock bands, happy to have brought along a few cams. We were greeted at the summit by a couple incoming thunderstorm cells, so we quickly made our way down. 3 bolted rappels brought us back the snow couloir, which we then did another 3 60 meter rappels to the base. The first being a conveniently located rock horn on on a pillar on climbers right. The other 2 from v-threads, finishing by rapping over the 3-4 open bergschrunds. Luckily the only weather that actually hit us we was at the base of the snow couloir, which quickly passed with only minor hail and a couple closer than comfortable lightning strikes. " — ken_hercules • Aug 15, 2022
" Ledges route to Neil Colgan hut. After a morning work meeting in Calgary we headed out to moraine lake. With the late start we got to the hut in about 6 hours. Had dinner, played some cards and scrambled up Bowlen for sunset. Shared the hut with a couple peakstratgem guides and their clients. After sharing some beta on their attempt on Quadra, that peak has moved way down my list. Quickly to bed for Fay the next day. 45 Minutes Hut-to-Hut with most of that on the summit. " — ken_hercules • Aug 12, 2022
"Neil Colgan Hut Weekend. August 13 - 15, 2021.
Amazing weekend up at the NC hut. Approached via the Schiesser Ledges, mostly difficult scrambling with two sections of 5th class, could say three but there's a chain to add with the first difficult section. Went up Peak 3.5 on the way to the hut and Bowlen for sunset. Intention to do other peaks while there, however most routes aren't in condition sadly. Plus on day 2 the smoke rolled in and we didn't have any views. Oh well, the hut itself is an incredible destination and glad to have gotten peak 3 and peak 3.5, will have to return for the others :) " — hollywilliams • Aug 13, 2021
"Neil Colgan Hut via Scheisser Ledges - July 26-28 2019. The ledges are dry except for 1 unavoidable exposed snow slope. Although we did get off route on the way up - the entire route is clearly marked with red paint circles and cairns. If you don't see those for a while you're probably off route. The path is generally very well defined, very obvious on descent. The 2nd and upper chain has been chopped and is gone- we solo'd up that section and it was a bit tough with full shank boots and heavy packs (on the way back we did 2 30m rappels). There are new double bolted anchors with rap rings at all 4 rappel sections which was great. We did not use 2 of them, and felt OK to downclimb. 6 hours car to hut including getting a bit lost. Travel on the glaciers was easy all weekend with little foot pen. Only when approaching in front of Fay was there some post holing but not for long. We went up Tonsa Peak shortly after arriving and had a tough go, the rock is batshit rotten, and route finding was tricky, with the "book of lies" not saying much of anything useful, it actually says "no difficulties"..ha... We thought the LH peak was the summit, it is not, and it is harder to reach than the tr..." — jakefinnan • Jul 26, 2019
"Neil Colgan Hut via Scheisser Ledges - July 26-28 2019. The ledges are dry except for 1 unavoidable exposed snow slope. Although we did get off route on the way up - the entire route is clearly marked with red paint circles and cairns. If you don't see those for a while you're probably off route. The path is generally very well defined, very obvious on descent. The 2nd and upper chain has been chopped and is gone- we solo'd up that section and it was a bit tough with full shank boots and heavy packs (on the way back we did 2 30m rappels). There are new double bolted anchors with rap rings at all 4 rappel sections which was great. We did not use 2 of them, and felt OK to downclimb. 6 hours car to hut including getting a bit lost. Travel on the glaciers was easy all weekend with little foot pen. Only when approaching in front of Fay was there some post holing but not for long. We went up Tonsa Peak shortly after arriving and had a tough go, the rock is batshit rotten, and route finding was tricky, with the "book of lies" not saying much of anything useful, it actually says "no difficulties"..ha... We thought the LH peak was the summit, it is not, and it is harder to reach than the tr..." — jakefinnan • Jul 26, 2019