After 3 days on Mount Baker attempting a summit attempt and doing glacier travel training, we headed over to Mt. Shuksan, hoping for a break from the snow and rain we got hit with on Baker. The break in the weather lasted until we started on the Shannon Ridge Trail - as soon as we started hiking with full packs, the rains started. The trail starts mild along an old logging road, and ripening salmonberries are abundant right now. After the long straight stretch ended and the switchbacks began, the rains really picked up, and the trail turned into a creek, with constant mud and water running down. The trail here is similar to Snoqualmie Mountain, and we were thankful for our experience on that mountain to prepare us for this.

Snow starts at about 4,700 feet, but as with everywhere now, it's melting fast down low. As we made our way past the sign marking entry into North Cascades National Park and up and over the ridge where the first amazing views are to be had (or would be if visibility wasn't so poor), the wind and rain really picked up. Our goal was to make it to the Sulphide Glacier and camp there, but visibility dropped to next to nothing, and so we found an area to camp just above the first pocket glaciers at 5,000 feet. We spent the next day resting and practicing crevasse rescue and began our summit attempt at 1:30 AM on the following day. After several days of dicey weather, we awoke to crystal clear skies and stars, with the dull glow of Vancouver, B.C., and Seattle in the distance.

Roped up, we made our way onto the glacier and past the normal campsites. There were 4 other groups heading up that morning, and by 3:45 as first light made it's appearance, headlamps began to go off, and we enjoyed an amazing sunrise coming over Baker, the Shuksan Peaks, and the entire North Cascades. With the heavier snow this year, we didn't have to go around any crevasses and this made for a relatively easy trek through Hells Highway to the Summit Pyramid. The Gully is still almost fully covered in snow and ice and makes for a more technical climb - definitely not just a "rock scramble" right now. Other climbers were going up the gully, ice axes dagger in, without too much trouble, as the snow and ice were pretty secure. Half way up, we began to use pickets and the anchors fixed to the rocks to provide a bit more of a safe ascent. We stayed on the snow the entire way, until 30 feet below the summit, where a couple of tricky moves were required on rock to wrap around the final notch to the small summit. Fortunately, a party ahead of us was heading down, so we had a half hour at the summit to ourselves. Words and even photos can't do justice to the beauty from the top of Shuksan. "The most photographed mountain in America" has incredible views in all directions, with Baker to the West, the mountains of Canada extending on seemingly forever, the North Cascades to the East and South, and Rainier on the horizon....

Coming down, we rappelled most of the way - 5 pitches. Some were down-climbing, but with the sun hitting the gully, snow was getting sloppy, and conditions were getting more dangerous. Rocks and chunks of ice were coming down frequently from others (took one rock in the arm), and it was getting crowded. We even saw someone going up without a helmet or gloves. This is a popular route, and there is not much room for more than a few parties - it was interesting to see the different approaches people were taking to climbing here. Some were solo, others were roped up, some were enjoying it, and some weren't - definitely heard some profanity from a few people :-). The Summit Pyramid is a serious climb, and admittedly we were relieved after getting off and onto the relative safety of the glacier.

The long trek back to camp in the soft snow and blazing sun was tough, but the surrounding beauty provided a diversion. The rest of the day was a typical "Big Mountain" afternoon: Coming down from the summit, breaking down camp, and making the final slog out with big packs. The car was truly a welcome sight! This climb for us was high on the difficulty and technical level, but was an unforgettable experience. Although the Sulphide Glacier is the "standard" route, it's not easy by any means, and requires endurance, training and skill