Distance

14.3 km to summit

31.1 km total

Elevation

1,736 m start

Vertical

1,771 m gain

Time

9 hr 14 min to summit

29 hr 0 min total

We climbed Mt. Foch via Petain Basin, which is possibly the safest route with the least amount of objective hazards. Fit parties can probably do it in under 12 hours from Kananaskis Lakes with the bike approach. We started from the end of Elk River Forestry Road and camped in the Basin.

Since this is unpublished route, I'll provide a few details:
-From Petain Basin take an obvious ramp and travel generally in NW direction to the other end of the Basin. Don't get unnecessarily high and don't get too close an unnamed peak between Fox and Foch. At the end of the Basin, you will find an obvious ramp to the ridge (1st photo), which joins the Kane route a few hundred meters before the summit and avoid all hazardous downclimbs. The access ramp is on generally stable rubble and some slabs (Class II terrain), easy despite the appearance. Higher up we donned crampons for 50m. During the hot summer, the snow will likely be gone by early-to mid August. Not this year.
-The Kane ridge is initially easy. Two short downclimbs probably deserve Class IV ratings but the rock is excellent so they are fairly easy. The third downclimb can be bypassed easily on climbers right. A steep slabby slope looks spicy but is much easier than appears. Until now, I'd rate the climb as "easier difficult".
-- The crux is a knife edge ridge right before the summit. This is a real beast. The ridge is severely exposed on both sides (a few hundred meters of free-fall) and a few inches wide in some places. Pictures don't do justice. Some people just walk it but I think it's nuts. A slip or gust of wind will result in a close coffin funeral. We chose to straddle the narrowest sections, which is the safest way to do. The traverse involves a few awkward steps when transitioning from the straddling to standing position. The access and exit are on severely exposed slabs. This knife edge constitutes what could be considered the "upper end of difficult scrambling". We debated if it can be considered a "scramble". Many people would wisely prefer some sort of protection.

This is possibly the safest route but Mt. Foch should not be underestimated. It is a real beast!

Route name

SW Slope from Petain Basin

out-and-back
Obstacles

road/access issues, routefinding

Key gear

ice axe, crampons, helmet