"Well that North Arete is shall we say a little bigger and longer than the trip report would suggest. We woke at 4:30am at the Islands Lake campground, made it to the base by 8am. A couple from Salt Lake bailed on pitch 1 so we had it to ourselves. Swapped leads with Tyler and Gerry cleaning the route up the middle. Probably 20 pitches with many being 30m and a few 50+m. Some stellar climbing on upper third. Weather began coming in. Few sprinkles on the upper 4 pitches. Topped out at about 8:15pm at summit cairn. Descent looked insane but found ledges on either side. Definitely 4th class. After a few hours in the dark decided to huddle with minimal clothing against a rock from 2am until first light at 5am when wet snow was in the air. Nearly froze my ass off. Celebrated Tyler's 32nd birthday that morning by walking off and back to tent by 8:30am. Quick food and sleep for 3 hrs before walking out the 12 miles to Elkhart Trailhead arriving at 9:30pm. Insane." — alexjoseph • Jul 28, 2014