Region
Highlights
- Most remote -- and least well-known -- of the 5 major volcanoes in the Cascades of Washington
- Surrounded by the Glacier Peak Wilderness; requires at least a 10 mile hike in to the usual base camps
- All routes require glacier travel; currently the most popular route is the south side via Gerdine and Cool Glaciers with 8900 ft of vert gain.
- Summit affords one of the most classic views of Washington's mountains due to its towering position deep in the Cascades
Routes
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7 summits • 15.5 mi • 5,597 ft gain • 12 hr 21 min
Latest summits
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0ther than being hot, perfect weather. Peak of wildflowers and alpine meadows. Summiters included a dog using claws for crampons, and a cyclist from Mongolia. First night at shelter in old growth forest. Second night at Glacier Gap. After summit, night at White Pass. Out the next day." — bobcarson • Jul 29, 2017
"Broke camp at 3:45 AM, leaving from the first campsite one reaches after dropping over the ridge from White Pass.
Despite some good beta on the route out of the White Chuck basin, we had some minor route finding issues in the dark. We thought we had circled the base of the glacier when we really we had started up a rock island that is passed on both sides by fingers of the glacier. We backtracked without adding too much time. The photo I’ve attached might help others.
The route out of the basin spits you out with the option of either crossing a permanent snowfield (glacier) or dropping some elevation and crossing the basin that separates you from Glacier Gap. With firm dawn ice, we decided to put on crampons and cross the snow, rather than lose the elevation.
After reaching the Gap, we started up the south ridge, hopping onto the snow for easy walking at the earliest opportunity. Many groups in the previous days had not roped up, but with a fairly inexperienced group of six we decided to go ahead and practice our roped travel (two teams). We crossed the Gerdine Glacier w/o incident, skirting a large area of rock fall. Some small crevasses were clearly visible. The ice was ..." — TynanRammGranberg • Aug 9, 2015
Photos
Awards
Challenges
About peakery awards
Log successful summits on peakery to earn awards:
Peak Badges: Earn a special badge for each unique peak you summit. See all of your badges on your Badges page.
First Ascent Award: Only 1 available per peak. Goes to the first peakery member to log a successful summit of a peak. Snag this award and the peak will forever bear your name.
King of the Mountain Award: Only 1 available per peak. Summit a peak more times than any other member. Beware: this award can be lost!
Summit Steward: Summit a peak at least 5 times to become one of its Summit Stewards. As Steward of a peak, you’re encouraged to keep that peak’s info up-to-date on peakery and spread goodwill on your future climbs up the peak.