Sgurr nan Eag

"The Main Cuillin Ridge in 1 day. With Robin Howie. We left Glen Brittle campsite at 03:30. Gars-bheinn was reached at 06:25. Highlights of the day: climbing up and down Caisteal a’ Garbh-Choire; abseiling down in to the Thearlaich-Dubh gap and the climb up the other side with me leading; reaching Sgurr Alasdair; climbing King’s Chimney (Robin leading) to reach Sgurr Mhic Choinnich; climbing An Stac and Inaccessible Pinnacle unroped, the tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh and then Bhasteir Tooth. We reached the base of Naismith’s Route at 21:30. We climbed Naithsmith’s Route to Bhasteir Tooth (me leading-not so bad as it seemed!). It was a struggle on an overhang to reach Am Basteir (Robin climbed it first with one foot in a sling and one foot on my shoulder – he then lowered a rope to me). We went up the west ridge to reach the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean at 23:00! Done it!! Quick handshake and down to reach Sligachan at 02:00." — peter43 • Jun 20, 1986

"Cairngorm Club meet. Solo. Attempt on complete ridge. I left Glen Brittle Camp Site at 03:05. I reached Gars-bheinn via the SW slopes. I went on to Sgurr a’ Choire Bhig and Sgurr nan Eag. I climbed up and down Caisteal a’ Garbh Choire and continued to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn. I abseiled into the Thearlaich-Dubh Gap. There was a party climbing up the other side and this was the cause of delay. However, they did offer to put me on the end of their rope. I accepted the offer so I did not have to climb it solo. I deviated off the main ridge to reach Sgurr Alasdair. I went on to Sgurr Thearlaich and climbed King’s Chimney to reach the summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. Gave up after ascending An Stac as too far behind schedule." — peter43 • May 5, 1985

"With Mark Garthwaite and Martin Heardman. From Glen Brittle Hut to Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda. We ascended to the ridge south of Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire and went along the ridge to Sgurr nan Eag. We went back along the ridge, under Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire on the east side, traversed under Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn and Sgurr Alasdair including jumping 20’ into a snow filled gully. We reached the Sgumain-Alasdair col and went up the SW ridge of Alasdair, avoiding the bad step, to reach Sgurr Alasdair. The SW ridge was very difficult. We went down the stone chute in a glissade. There was much snow, going hard on top, with some ice. There were superb views. It was a first class day." — peter43 • Mar 25, 1983

"Cairngorm Club meet at Glen Brittle Hut. With 4 other members. From the hut to Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda (superb corrie) in thick mist. The mist lifted as we reached the lochan. We ascended to Bealach a’ Garbh-choire, then along the ridge to Sgurr nan Eag. There were superb views. We went back along the ridge, avoiding Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire on the Garbh-choire side, to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn. Then to Sgurr Dubh Mor. It was misty now and there was some difficulty in finding the way. We went back to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn, then to Bealach Coir’ an Lochain, Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda and Glen Brittle Campsite." — peter43 • Aug 2, 1982