Sgurr Dearg—Cairn

"The Main Cuillin Ridge in 1 day. With Robin Howie. We left Glen Brittle campsite at 03:30. Gars-bheinn was reached at 06:25. Highlights of the day: climbing up and down Caisteal a’ Garbh-Choire; abseiling down in to the Thearlaich-Dubh gap and the climb up the other side with me leading; reaching Sgurr Alasdair; climbing King’s Chimney (Robin leading) to reach Sgurr Mhic Choinnich; climbing An Stac and Inaccessible Pinnacle unroped, the tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh and then Bhasteir Tooth. We reached the base of Naismith’s Route at 21:30. We climbed Naithsmith’s Route to Bhasteir Tooth (me leading-not so bad as it seemed!). It was a struggle on an overhang to reach Am Basteir (Robin climbed it first with one foot in a sling and one foot on my shoulder – he then lowered a rope to me). We went up the west ridge to reach the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean at 23:00! Done it!! Quick handshake and down to reach Sligachan at 02:00." — peter43 • Jun 20, 1986

"Cairngorm Club meet. Solo. Attempt on complete ridge. I left Glen Brittle Camp Site at 03:05. I reached Gars-bheinn via the SW slopes. I went on to Sgurr a’ Choire Bhig and Sgurr nan Eag. I climbed up and down Caisteal a’ Garbh Choire and continued to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn. I abseiled into the Thearlaich-Dubh Gap. There was a party climbing up the other side and this was the cause of delay. However, they did offer to put me on the end of their rope. I accepted the offer so I did not have to climb it solo. I deviated off the main ridge to reach Sgurr Alasdair. I went on to Sgurr Thearlaich and climbed King’s Chimney to reach the summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. Gave up after ascending An Stac as too far behind schedule." — peter43 • May 5, 1985

"With Jonathan Bellarby, Geraldine Guest, and Robin Howie. From Glen Brittle ascended via the West Ridge to Sgurr Dearg Cairn. We climbed the East Ridge of Inaccessible Pinnacle on two ropes. Robin and I also climbed the West Ridge with a top rope. We went to Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, avoiding An Stac. We went via Collie’s Ledge to the bottom of King’s Chimney, which Robin and I climbed. So we reached the summit of Sgurr Mhic Coinnich for the second time. We used Collie’s Ledge again to rejoin the others and went on to Sgurr Thearlaich and Sgurr Alasdair. The weather was very good. " — peter43 • May 12, 1984

"Cairngorm Club Meet at Glen Brittle Hut. With Martin Wilson, Fraser Stronach. We went up to Window Buttress. There was difficulty with a jammed rope on the first pitch, which Martin led. I seconded and had to untie from the rope temporarily in order to free the rope. Fraser decided to go down – cold, windy and misty conditions. Martin and I continued climbing. Above the neck “Moderate Scrambling” is really climbing so took longer than expected. We met a member of the club near the Sgurr Dearg Cairn as we had promised to take him up the In Pin. Conditions were too windy so the climb was not done. Descent was by the West Ridge." — peter43 • Sep 25, 1983

"Cairngorm Club meet at Glen Brittle Hut. Alone. To An Dorus and Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh followed by a traverse of all the tops to Sgurr Dearg Cairn and then down west ridge. Mist all day until it lifted coming down the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg to give good views. I had difficulty in finding An Dorus due to mist and false indications of my compass. The mist lifted for a few minutes to show my position." — peter43 • Aug 12, 1982

"Cairngorm Club Meet at Glen Brittle Hut. With 5 fellow members. From the hut up the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg to the cairn. I led 2 members up the long side of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. We abseiled down the short side. I repeated this with 2 other members. Delays due to large party going the other way." — peter43 • Aug 3, 1982

"Cairngorm Club Meet at Glen Brittle Hut. With 6 fellow members. From the hut up the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg to the cairn. We went on the east side and up the long side of the Inaccessible Pinnacle on two ropes. We abseiled down the short side. Rain started on the way up, only slight at first. 4 of us continued underneath An Stac towards Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, but as the rain was now heavier descended screes to Coire Lagan and back to the hut." — peter43 • Aug 1, 1982