The President traverse
36km with 2,650m gain in 16:30hrs

Had The President on my list for a while but didn't want to slog up the Yoho Valley Road. Then from Mt Field and Emerald Peak, saw a potential of doing it via south side of Emerald Glacier. Quick research showed just one or two mentioning of that route but was still a good sign.

Saw a good weather window, was able to book a day off mid-week and found myself leaving Emerald Lake parking at 6:30am. After multiple melt/freeze cycles, the snow became sheer ice crust. While cruising along the lake was fast but we had to put ski crampons pretty much right after an ascent toward Yoho Pass started. We kept the crampons on until we got to the VP southeast ridge, i.e., for the whole ascent.

On the technical side, the crux is a short traverse from south slopes toward a bowl and the glacier beneath Michael Peak. There are two potential options:
- the route we took, below a rock band and then boot-packing for 10-15m; note, if going that way back, most likely a rappel will be needed there;
- depending on the conditions, the another option is going to climber's right of the rock band and then crossing a ridge (in our case - steep slope with multiple avi debris and overhead cornice danger).

Once in the bowl, it's pretty much straight-forward: zig-zagging your way toward Emerald Glacier (was all covered with snow, no visible crevices near our line) and the VP southeast ridge.

Somewhere midway in the bowl, it became understandable that the promised cloud coverage is not happening today. And our plan A (returning the same way) is not happening either. Discussed the options between taking the Yoho Valley road or Iceline trail down. Chose in the favour of the latter due to returning to the same parking and no need in finding a ride.

The VP southeast ridge is pretty long but very wide and with minimal gain. Then the "normal" route off it, to the President and down to Stanley Mitchell Hut.

The Iceline trail is very visible and obvious... in summer when dry. In winter - it's merely a snow covered moraine field. Good luck orienting there in pre-dusk hours when sun is behind mountains already. And what was even worse are Highline and Yoho Pass trails. Well, they are trails in summer and on the map. Our reality was light to mid bushwhacking with headlamps and by GPS.

Despite a long day and epicish ending (as my partner said: the epic is when you have to spend a night ON the mountain), still enjoyed the trip a lot. And envy in a good way to whomever will find a good weather window to ski out The VP via Emerald Glacier.


PS: If/when I repeat it again, I'll bring another car to the Yoho Valley Road gate... just in case.