With two other members of an HF party based at Pontresina with Guide Schmidthauser. We left Diavolezza at 3.50am on route to Piz Palü. The route is to the east of Piz Troval and across Vadret Bere. Just before reaching the glacier the guide stumbled on rock and plunged head over heels 20 yds down a slope of boulders. Amazingly he was cut in the head, hands and one leg only and continued. We roped up at the start of the glacier. Crampons were put on at the foot of an ice fall. We winded in and out on the west side (though some parties and the original route went up the east side), through an area of huge crevasses. At the top lay a snow slope to the east ridge and Piz Palü East Top. We went up steep ice to the summit of Piz Palü, arriving there at 8.30am. We went along a rocky ridge to Piz Spinas and Fuorcla Bellavista. A plane landed on the glacier. Crampons were put on again for the descent. We went across the shoulder of Bellavista and straight down Vadret da Morteratsch past three ice falls to Morteratsch station.