Distance

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Elevation

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Time

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Started at pole creek trailhead at 5:30am and headed up camp lake trail until about 6200 ft when I jumped off and started overland towards the SE ridge of North Sister. Made the ridge by about 8am and began my ascent around the gendarmes. I got pretty lucky picking my route and never had to retreat when choosing left or right around the obstacles, although the exposure on some where pretty hairy. I made the intersection with the south ridge around 10 and thanks to the detailed info on summitpost started making my way along the upper ridge. Once I arrived at the terrible traverse I was glad I had lugged the ice axe and crampons up, since the snowfield was still about 25-30 ft across. I felt a little ridiculous since it took longer to put the crampons on and off than it did to actually cross the snowfield, but it would have been impossible without them. The other side of the snowfield was nothing but rotten rock and prayers for about 50ft. Definitely is the most exposure and worse conditions that I have climbed on to date. I was actually relieved to climb up some solid rock into the deadly bowling alley. After the traverse, the bowling alley felt too easy. A quick ascent up to the top and across to the false summit made my heart rate finally start to drop. I then crossed the ridge and up the final summit block for some quick pictures and retreated out of the wind. No time for celebration yet since I knew the reputation of the mountain for injuries on the way down. I was slow and methodical through the bowling alley making sure to duplicate my line on the way out. My only error of the day was trying to go higher on the traverse into a little more solid rock since it ended on some dinnerplate talus about 15 ft short of where I had left my gear. I had to reverse course and go back over the exposure again following my initial crossing. Once I had made it back to my gear the sun was starting to peak around the summit and I was worried that the snow would start to get soft. I made quick work getting my crampons back on and made the traverse back before it got too loose. Finally I felt safe enough to let my guard down and have a quick bite and my summit beer. Feeling refreshed I decided to head down the south ridge and go up Prouty Point. I wanted to do it back in the spring when I did Middle Sister, but was too gassed that day. I wished now that I had done it in the spring since my legs were complete jello, but I made up to the top even though my feet were cramping. Thank goodness Hayden Glacier was still mostly intact since it gave me several glissade opportunities to lose elevation without using my dead legs. The 6 miles back to the trailhead were mostly uneventful and finally saw my first people after a full day on the mountain. I got back to the car at 4:30 and finished with 16.5 miles round trip and almost 10,000 ft gained and lost for the day.

Route name

SE ridge

Obstacles

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Key gear

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