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- Climbers : Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
- Vicuñita West Face
- Mix Terrain with loose and deep snow, snow plates, 2 big horizontal crevasses, loose rocks and channel made of rocks & hard ice. Angle up to 90º. Passing that channel required experience in mix climbing and makes the route very difficult (MD+)
- First ascent: June 6, 2010 by climbers Beto Pinto & Sophie Denis
- Name of the route: “Sacred Ayahuasca” Iin honnor to the Inca plant used to visit the past and the future
- Elevation: 838m from moraine camp (4,700 m.a.s.l), to the summit (5,538 m.a.s.l)
- Grade: MD+ 380m 60° - 90°- 70° - 60°
- Equipment: 2 rope (60m), 2 Ice axes, 2 Snow pickets, 3 ice screws, rock gear, 5 friends , 5 stoppers and 3 pitons

Climb quick sum up:
Approach: After a rest day, we left the Moraine Camp at 3am on the 6th day to climb Vicuñita West Face. The approach was consisting in crossing the moraine, made of lose rock and crossing a small glacier made of hard ice with obvious horizontal crevasses. This phase is pretty straight forward and we enjoyed a fast-paced walk. We arrive at the bottom of the face at 5am.

Route: To safe time we climbed almost 2 pitches together in the assembly style. Snow was loose; angle was up to 60 º for the last meters before reaching the bottom of the narrow channel. The rock was perfect to set a strong anchor. We start climbing the channel at 5:30am. Rock in the channel was a little loose but the hard ice was perfect to have enough support and resistance to climb. It is a very enjoyable pitch made of pure mix climbing followed by a hard ice 90º section. Then, once we arrived at the top of the hedge of the face, you walk to the summit on a slope with an angle of 25 º to 45 º. Good snow condition. We noticed that the hanging mushroom had a big crack, so watch out. We summit at 7:30am. Views are breathtaking.

Paccha route: As we were feeling good, we decided to walk along the whole ridge to Paccha summit. (Snow melts pretty fast with the sun, so it seems better to be out of the hill by ~10am.)

Descent: We descent Paccha via the normal route. We arrived at the bottom of the glacier ~10am, ice was hard. We got a lunch then we went down the Moraine to the base camp. We change base camp from Moraine Camp to Paccha lake base camp. We arrived at our camp at 1pm.

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sophiedenis

* Route referenced in the American Alpine Journal