Distance

6.4 km to summit

13.4 km total

Elevation

1,733 m start

2,881 m max

Vertical

1,178 m gain

Time

5 hr 41 min to summit

12 hr 3 min total

This is what I posted on a scramblers facebook site:

Mountaineering conditions on Mt. Warspite. It is not yet a scramble.

Alan Kane suggests Mt. Warspite should be treated as a mountaineering climb before late July. We are 2-3 weeks behind the schedule in terms of the snowpack so the scramblers may have to wait perhaps 2 more weeks for the dry conditions.

I brought crampons and ice-axe but I wished I had a second axe. The photo below doesn't do justice. The ascent gully is very steep, perhaps 45 degrees on average, and perhaps 50 degrees higher up. The picture is also extremely foreshortened.
The snowpack was still hard solid near the noon. It worked in my advantage and I used the front-pointing technique to ascend rather quickly the snow slope. I anticipated it. What I didn't anticipate was the rockfall danger. As I was ascending the slope I started hearing and seeing numerous small rocks zipping by me like bullets with the "zi-i-i-i-p zi-i-i-ip" sound. I felt like on the battlefield under the hostile sniper fire. It was happening every minute. As some rocks were coming to the stop far below, I could hear the zipping sound above my head. I've never observed such intense rock fall. These were all small rocks. I haven't seen a single medium one. But even a small rock can inflict a considerable damage at the high speed. I guess I happen to be in the ascent gully in the worst time - the sun finally lit up the north facing wall above the steep slope and warmed it up. The melting water started to release rocks.

I chose to quickly go up and exit the fire line instead of a slow descent. I decided to descend the gully in the late afternoon/early evening. I expected the rock fall to significantly abate by then. My calculations were mostly right. While I could hear occasionally the zipping sound of a rock projectile, it was perhaps at 5% intensity of that during the ascent. Still, a flying rock once bounced off my helmet. I might have got a concussion if I were not wearing it. The descent was very slow because only a tiny layer of the snowpack got soft. I couldn't rely on front-pointing anymore and resorted to kick-stepping. The snow was so hard that it usually took me 5-6 hard kicks to get a decent size foothold I was not afraid to put my weight on. The process was slow and exhausting. O boy, I wish I had a second axe.

To summarize, there is a good reason most people attempt Mt. Warspite in August when the ascent gully is dry. This is also when the north face wall dries off. That's why probably I don't recall reading about the rock fall danger in any trip reports. People confident on the steep snow slopes will be fine in the off-season, but such ascents should be treated as a mountaineering climb, as Kane suggests.And the rock fall dangers seems to be unavoidable on a hot day, especially in the late morning/early afternoon

Route name

normal route

out-and-back
Obstacles

routefinding, rockfall/loose rock, snow on route

Key gear

ice axe, crampons, helmet