Distance

5.3 km to summit

11.5 km total

Elevation

1,332 m start

2,526 m max

Vertical

1,246 m gain

Time

4 hr 29 min to summit

8 hr 0 min total

Phoebe's Tit or Mt. Michener North Peak is often mistaken for Mount Michener true summit, which lies further east.
It is a popular winter climb when Abraham Lake's ice is safe to cross, normally from mid January till early March. The biggest challenge is the wind which is particularly strong in this area in the winter. I had to cancel it at least 10 times due to the wind warning or unfavorable weather forecast over last 6 years until this weekend. So I thought. We still faced brutal wind, which sapped my energy and made it difficult to walk.
The good thing was that the crux was sheltered from the wind by the summit block. Otherwise, it would have been dangerous. The crux is more mountaineering in nature than scrambling when covered with the snow and ice. I see why some parties rope up here. Our large group felt confident without ropes, but I found crampons and ice-axe handy. Some people were fine with microspikes.

From the summit of Phoebe's Tit, Doug Lutz wanted to continue towards South Peak and eventually towards the true summit of Michener. Very soon it became clear that there is no non-technical route towards South. We turned back and summitted Phoebe's Tit again before returning the same way. The crux felt easier during the downclimb.

I'll return someday to attempt the true summit via a different route.

Route name

NW Ridge

out-and-back
Obstacles

road/access issues, routefinding, stream crossing, bushwhacking, blowdowns, rockfall/loose rock, avalanche danger, Lake crossing

Key gear

ice axe, crampons, helmet