Hiked in to bivy site on Sunday, July 26 but too late to do an alpine start the next day, so just sat around on the Monday. Hot weather and its effect on snow conditions made a very early start necessary. Started at 1am Tuesday and summitted at 8:30am back to the glacier by about 11am. Tricky bergschrund crossing on the way up. Descent required 3 raps high up along the south ridge and one rap off a dead man anchored snow picket (which was left behind) to cross the bergschrund and get back onto the glacier. Hiked out the next day.