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Technical snow ascent with local mountain guide. We started the climb at about 2:30 am under a full moon, intending to summit around sunrise, however we were still about 400 vertical feet and 45 minutes of climbing from the summit after the sun rose and had to turn back about 30 minutes after sunrise when ice and rock, warmed by the sun, began coming down the slope near us.
1-with-Nature
bummer you didn't make it?
Bob-in-Pasadena
No, the guide thought it would be too dangerous, particularly if we had proceeded to the top, spent some time there, then started to descend. That would have been 90 minutes or so later and the warmer it gets, the more ice and rock start coming down. At the point we turned, a bowling-ball-sized chuck of ice had come down at about 60 mph about 100 feet to our right ... that's when he said, OK, we got to get off the mountain. That's why Hood is climbed mostly at night, summiting at sunrise then gettin' outta Dodge, fast .....
Bob-in-Pasadena
Peakery assumes you 'bagged' the peak, but at least on alpine climbs like Hood, Shasta, Rainier, etc. it's not uncommon to have to stop for safety's sake. Hood is dangerous -- in addition to falling rock & ice, there's a 30 foot crevasse below the main summit route, affectionately called "the pearly gates" by some. If you fall there and can't self-arrest on the 50 degree slope, you're gonna be bagged by the Bergshrund ..... There have been five climbing fatalities on Mt. Hood in 2012-2013, 17 since 2000.