Mt Habel - July 20 2019. We headed up to Peyto hut for the night with the goal of doing Mt Habel before sunset. We had to take our boots off to cross the river, couldn't find a spot shallow enough otherwise. I'd recommend bringing shoes for the crossing and get it over with before you head up the canyon, then switch to boots. To gain the glacier there's this nasty mud that will swallow your boots, beware! then it's bare ice up the Peyto glacier until you turn the corner towards the hut. There was fresh snow from Friday's storm covering most of the glacier above ~2400m. This made navigating crevasses a bit tricky since there was a lot less visual cues than there would have been a few days ago. Bridges were not very supportive during the day, and we put our feet in a few times. There was about 10cm of fresh snow between the hut and Mt Habel, and we did have trouble in spots with crevasses due to the fresh snow hiding them, and the poor support on bridges. We probed a lot, and lost our feet a few more times. Travel on the snow was mostly good - ankle deep with a few spots getting to boot deep, pretty minimal post holing in a few places. Things improved right below Mt Habel and we had a 1.7m snowpack with easier travel here. About 15cm of fresh snow on the summit ridge. The slopes to gain the summit ridge are much less steep than we expected, not even 30deg if you take the most gentle line as we did. Certainly less steep than Rhondda. There are several large cornices on the Habel summit ridge. We were concerned with the crux section to gain the true summit block because of this fresh snow but it ended up being beneficial. It was tacky n packy! perfect for kicking steps up the crux (with crampons and axe) We felt comfortable soloing up and down which was great, I don't think conditions like that happen often and it would be a nasty fall. The rock horn that people rappel off of from the summit moves quite easily, it may freeze into place in winter but keep in mind that it's not bomber. The trip back was uneventful following our steps, made it back to the hut before needing headlamps. It cleared up and was cool overnight, making for a better freeze the next morning for the hike out. 5 hours round trip 8km return from Peyto hut with ~700m of gain. Lots of photos of just about every objective in the area, have a look.