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left Cortes bay by boat on sat morning 7am , 4 people and packs. About 9 am we headed up Forbes creekon on its left bank on a well used trail which goes to the falls about 20 minutes then turned away from the creek at about a 45 % angle and after about 30 minutes found the old logging road. As it was late in the year and the creek water was low you could just barely hear Forbes creek on the logging road. After about 2 hrs in one of our members back spasmed and after tying 3 of the packs in a tree we all hiked back to the beach. While 2 people waited one of us took the hurting person back to Cortes bay and after gaining more fuel zoomed back to Forbes bay. We camped in the valley beside a large rock and presumed the next morning. We stayed on the logging road another hr.and then after crossing the grey, bare granite creek turned up the slope, I traversed 15 0r 20 minutes too far and as I had made this error before zigged back but continually up to get us back on the the grey granite creek and into the high country. We were able to climb the creek bed as the water was so low, something which I hadn't been able to do in previous years. It took about 7 hrs to get to the camp at the bottom of the talus at the base of Denman from our rock camp, normally from the beach it's about a 9 to 10 hr. hike and very steep in places. Excellent blue and huckleberries higher up. The next morning we found the route with its minimal flagging. It begins on a grassy slope near some large old growth fir just below the bottom of the talus. The path swings right /left between trees and small cliffs up and up until you swing around the southern spine and turn left straight up the fall line. Following the spine for an hour or so with wonderful views all around we approached the cliff. It looks imposing but is not a difficult climb and no ropes are needed.( some might like a rope ) After some discussion we went up and then traversed got into some steeper than we liked parts but came back right and got on a good route up . There are as many ways up as climbers however in my opinion the easiest route up and down is low point to low point traversing right and aiming for the southern saddle. As you near the cliff and come out of the trees there is a notch and a crack at the base and it carries you along the suggested route. The exposure and steepness is daunting but the rock is good and there are plenty of hand /foot holds. Once on the mid saddle go up for the 1st pitch maybe 20 minutes but look to the right and there may be some rock piles to show the way, keep swinging right but up and the route becomes clear. It is mostly just scrambling but there are some steep areas to climb especially the last 20 minutes. The top is stand alone spectacular. Going down, be careful and go slow. From the talus base camp, up is around 3 hrs, down 2 1/2 or so, the whole summit trip is 6 or 7 seven hrs by the time you sit around and enjoy your lunch etc.
I have only summitted in fair weather. From June to mid Sept there are usually enough 3 or 4 day Highs to get you in and out with good vis and fair temperatures. Come to Cortes island, camp, give yourself a week and you will have a wonderful time.

Route name

southern saddle

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