Despite the smoke from nearby wildfires, we seemed to be above the worst of it. We enjoyed blue skies for most of the weekend. Did the approach on Thursday afternoon, climbed Friday, and returned to the car Saturday morning. Bivvied at the toe of the glacier.

Crossing the glacier was straight forward as most of the crevasses are exposed now. Finding the right spot to drop into the moat took some trial and error, but we found it without difficulty. The ledge was a lot of fun. It's well protected and the second station is further than we anticipated. The ridge scramble was just fun. It's well marked with cairns. Exposed sections are on good rock. The summit was enjoyable, but we will have to come back for better views when there are no fires. We rappelled at the first station while descending the ledge (the last on ascent). This included a fun hanging rappel for maybe 20m. To avoid rapping into the moat, we pushed off the wall and dropped onto the top of the snow slope.