14 hours, 15 min from Glacier Lodge. This peak is very challenging. From finger lake, we climbed the middle palisade glacier, trying our best to not fall into the bergshrund which was hidden by a weak snow bridge. Loose terrible dirt and rock section up to ridge. I went straight for Balcony while the others took the standard approach to disappointment. I descended a very spicy class 4 crack and somehow eventually got myself into the “right chute”. There was a lot of class 4 moves but no good way to protect any of it. The rocks were loose so I had to double check each hold with a tug or a kick. I couldn’t really be happy on the summit because we had a lot of scary down climbs, exposed traverses and an iffy glacier until finding safer ground. At least the weather held, and everyone made it back safe. Sierra challenge 2020 Day 8

Other peaks climbed on this trip