9/2/23: Paul and I camped at Half Moon CG for 5 nights. On Friday we hiked up above Twin Lakes and reconnoitered the possible approaches up Crazy Peak having very limited beta. The North Ridge looked extremely aesthetic and pretty doable with one lower dihedral being questionable but apparently avoidable if necessary. Ultimately I left the decision to Paul who was already contemplating sitting this one out. He decided that he was game for the West Ridge and so it was. We headed up the lower ridge above Blue Lake and its upper basin and skirted the glacier below the West Ridge saddle. A couple and their dog, Momo, followed along with us up to the saddle. This was generally a great approach route except for the final 300’ from the glacier up to the saddle spur ridge (very steep, loose glacier till with large, fast falling scree). Lots of rockfall! After a well-earned lunch break, Paul and I continued towards the false summit along the West Ridge. This is one of the most spectacular ridge hikes in the Rockies. The Crazies are some of the most interesting and aesthetic peaks and ridges and the eye candy was a great complement to the easy Class 3 scrambling along the way.
I made the false summit a good 20 minutes before Paul and took some time to find the most stable route down to the notch. I chose the second gully to the right of the high point/notch wall due to it’s left-hand “assist” wall as there is considerable steep, loose dirt/rocks down each gully. I would later climb back out of the notch straight up the headwall (easy Class 4) and would ultimately probably have preferred that route down as well (good rock). From the notch up to the summit there is a large ledge bisected by a large boulder/gendarme that you can get around by going either to the left or right. It was cake from there up to the summit that I’ve been wanting to climb since first laying eyes on it 1996!
Paul turned around at the false summit and had a head start back. At about 10,750 back down the ridge I radioed to him that I was going to short cut down the steep northwest slopes back to Blue Lake. I was somewhat surprised that I was mostly easily able to find decent enough routes down only slipping and falling a couple times. It also afforded great views of the North Scramble Ridge all the way down. Next time! (13.4/5350)