"This is possibly the first place I’ve ever had to pay to go for a hike, so thank you to the Paklenica National Park for providing a novel experience. I said as much to the guy in the ticket office although it looked like he’d heard it all before, save perhaps the biting sarcasm. So anyway, 15 euros lighter (five for car, ten for a human) after parking a kilometre past the gates with my partner I headed up a good stone road which winds up through the canyon, crossing over the river by footbridge in a couple of places before reaching a place signposted Anića Kuk where stepping stones of sorts take you to the right bank. From here there is about 400 metres ascent very much in the shadow of the peak itself, and shaded too by quite thick forest. The going is fairly steep in places, with gravel underfoot, but fairly good, and the atmosphere very peaceful after leaving the crowds in the canyon. Along this way several signs point to various climbing routes for the huge 300m vertical wall, and we watched a couple of groups gingerly making their way up. At around 580m you reach the ridge and the path works its way around the back of the hill, descending slightly and then going at it in a sl..." — vygodski • May 13, 2026

"Tulove Grede is a stunning peak of smooth but irregular limestone towers, improbably springing up from the mountain top and seemingly impenetrable to the hiker. So when I began the relatively short trail up from the strange curved bridge structure at Vrhprag I didn’t think I’d be able to bag it. It is quite a long drive up a good gravel road but there was some uncertainty where it commences, just before the tunnel through the mountain which it skirts over, with a stop sign on a barrier halfway across the road. I was assured by locals that it was permissible to pass. A marked path takes one north west behind the back of Tulove, and the going is fairly easy. One is surrounded by these eerie towers of rock and the cloud and wind added to the slightly tense and foreboding atmosphere. Nearing the saddle of Tulove and another unnamed hill to the north, the path veers of to the right and enters this strange, natural stone cathedral. The path winds up through rocky features which require some delicate footwork to get through. After a while one arrives at a slightly open area – the nave? – where three large towers of rock stand as sentinels. The smoothness of the rock told me instantly the..." — vygodski • May 11, 2026