David Thompson Traverse, part 1:
Landslide Ridge - Whirlpool Ridge (and its NE Outlier) - Tuff Puff "Ridge" - Two O'Clock Ridge and Mountain - Landslide Peak

Jul 27, 2018
30.9 km with 3,258m gain in 14hrs car-to-car (that makes PB for elevation gain in a single day)


Someone recommended Whirlpool to Elliott traverse a while ago, so I look it up on a map, and more I looked, more I was excited about it. I actually even attempted it on Jun 1, but that ended with summiting Whirlpool Ridge via its South ridge only.


1. Landslide Ridge (2,672m)
When scouting on Jun 1, I did the Whirlpool via its South ridge and returned via "normal" way, under the slabs. It took 8+ hours, 1,600m total gain and endless pain of side slopping on scree. While doing that, spotted a parallel ridge with what looked like a trail on it. Sure thing, I found later that it was Landslide Lake trail.
The trail is so much easier and faster, it took just a bit over 2 hours to get to the Ridge's summit, 6km with 1,250m gain.


2. Whirlpool Ridge (2,884m)
In the first place, not sure why it's called a "ridge" but not "peak" or similar. It is a standalone mount by itself, not an easy one and pretty high for the area.
The traverse is just an easy drop and the moderate (class 3) scramble of the face. Another mount that doesn't see many summits, its register was placed in 1997 and there are barely 15-20 records since. A bit more lately but initially was like: a record in 1997, pause for 3 years, another in 2000, pause for 3 years, etc.


3. Tuff Puff "Ridge" (2,463m)
Just a hump on NE ridge of the Whirlpool.
There were two stages in the descent to it: first in a narrow and rather steep gully off Whirlpool summit on skiers left toward Whirlpool NE Outlier. Not more than one group of 2-3 people are recommended in that gully.
After that, continue on skiers right as well, there are two choices: either even worse and longer gully that ends with a chimney to down climb, or a bit further right might be a better and more gradual slope (based on a loop from below after).


4. Two O'Clock Ridge (2,504m)
The worst part of it is 200m drop to a valley below and following gain. Partially, because of wrongly placed GPS waypoint, a curve on the way up was to short and, as consequence, was too soon on the ridge. Take further right to save yourself 50-70m of unnecessary elevation gain.


5. Two O'Clock Mountain (2,805m)
Just a slog on the way up. And very tricky descent on the North face/ridge with multiple cliff bands and an additional elevation loss (~100m, what a "surprise"). In retrospective, if possible to descend via NE ridge/slopes and then traverse below cliff bands, it would've been so much faster.


6. Landslide Peak (2,813m)
Summited at 5pm, by that time it was already 2,800m+ of total gain. And Elliott Peak looked both so faar and so high. Decided to bail and return to the car directly.
During the descent only one thing to keep in mind: if in doubt, remember the peak's name; everything goes.


Reasons for bailing:
- some stormy clouds started to show up on horizon (it wasn't forecasted but one never knows);
- as already mentioned, Elliott looked so far and estimated additional gain would be another 1,000-1,200m;
- return to the road would be way after the sunset;
- personally and mentally wasn't ready to have 4k+ day;
- except of few bars, ran out of food (which never ever happened before);


Summary:
- while beginning was very easy, amount of technical [down] climbing off Whirlpool and Two O'clock summits was somewhat unexpected;
- distance from Landslide Peak to the pass is surprisingly long, ~6km, with about 400m gain. And that _without_ going to the lake, descending to the lake will add another 200m to catch up. Knowing that know, I guess would push to Elliott at once;
- continuing to Elliott would definitely make it a 4k day but distance wise would add just few extra kilometres, estimated total at 35km;
- if willing to carry extra gear, then a bivy somewhere between Landslide and Bridge Peaks would be nice (it a PLUZ, so no permits required);
- for a single day, it's more like 17-20 hour adventure;