Both ascent and descent routed from south side.
Day 1: Start from bridge nearby city of Laza on left bank of Damiraparancay. Along the river to Mucuq waterfall (alt.1650m).
Day 2: From waterfall short descent back to river and after 150m sharp turn to right (east). Walk through meadow and lond ascend to pass with lake (alt. ca. 2900m). Whole route was following paths created by local shepards and thousands of steps of their cattle along the history.
Day 3: From lake (water used by cattle, source of drinking water is just below the pass) to east and than north to summit of Kumur (alt. 3226m). This climb is quite sharp and can reach 40 degrees. Surface is partly covered by into small pieces broken slate - risk of slide. Descend under Tufan's south ridge itself. Nice place to stay is in saddle with four pilars made of stacked stones (alt. ca. 3060m). Water is on left (east) side downwards to the quite narrow ravine. The water source was mostly melting snow during our visit.
Day 4: restday
Day 5: Summit (4192m) and back. Keep just on the ridge (width tens of meters). However the route is easy to read it is important to choose safe way through short stony passages. Very short climbs up to grade II UIAA are possible but avoidable if walk around is taken. Last 200m-300m of altitude are led in rather thick layer of shredded slate rocks which slides down a little with every step. Steepness approx.20%.
Whole route takes 1100 altitude meters and 4.2km. Return by the same way.
Day 6: Descend on south west flank (west from camp) through meadows and pastures to river Damiraparancay (alt. 2200m). !!Cross the river at 41.1222N, 47.9474E and don't try to go through gorge unless there is very low water level. There is a narrow path on the hillside which leads to south, but 50-100m above the stream. This is objectively the most dangerous part ending with short but very steep descend to the river (30-40 degrees). Camp one hour north from Laza on the right bank of Damiraparancay or return left bank and to Laza -> Gebele.