Sunday 29th July 2018. An ascent of Mont de Gez 1097m/163m, Val d’Azun, near Argelès-Gazost, Hautes Pyrénées, France. 11.0km, with 600m of ascent. 4hrs 5mins.

My wife and I were staying, for the second time, at a beautiful gîte in the village of Gaillagos, in Val d’Azun, south-west of the famous town of Lourdes in the French Pyrenees.

Our stay gave me the opportunity to complete what I had begun in August 2016 – to visit all the summits on the ridge that runs along the northern side of Val d’Azun. One of the main tributaries of the Gave d’Arrens river, which runs through this dramatic valley, has its source in the Balaïtous Massif (see at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bala%C3%AFtous), one of the great three-thousand-metre peaks of the Pyrenees. The massif could be clearly seen from the veranda of our gîte.

The Crête du Val d’Azun does not reach these heights (the highest mountain along the ridge is Pic de Bazes at 1804m/330m), but it is full of interest. There are limestone peaks and crests of the type often associated with the Pyrenees, but also heather-clad hills with acid soils reminiscent of some the hills of Mid Wales. Wildlife teems, with a wide variety of butterfly species sipping at the carpets of wild flowers. Golden eagles, griffon vultures and lammergeiers ride the thermals in significant numbers.

Two hikes were needed to complete the ridge. I began modestly, with the Mont de Gez, the hill that lies at the far eastern edge of the ridge above the thriving town of Argelès-Gazost.

My wife dropped me off from the car in the village of Arras en-Lavedan to start my hike. I took a steep lane north up past the little castle of Castèth-Nau d’Azun. This fortress has an interesting history. It was constructed in 1260 by the local count, and strengthened in 14th Century during the Hundred Years War between France and England. In 1360 it fell into English hands under the Black Prince, eldest son of King Edward III. In 1404 it was recaptured by a French contingent of 300 men-at-arms and 150 crossbowmen.

The tarmac lane soon deteriorated into a steep stony track in the welcome shade of a cool deciduous forest, by which a brook gurgled on its way down to join the river in the valley. At the 900 metre contour the track joined a high tarmac lane, running along the north flank of the ridge. I followed this north beside a pastoral coombe, ringing to the clank of sheep- and goat-bells.

I reached a junction, where another track coming up from the village joined the lane. A little way down this track a signed footpath led up through woodland into a pastoral nature reserve. It was a hot day, and this shady wood certainly comforted my ascent. I followed various paths around the south flank of the hill before turning north-west to join a trail through bracken up onto the summit plateau. The highest point was at its northern end, but the best views were to be had from the erratic rocks that dotted the southern end of the plateau. Through the heat haze the dramatic gash of Val d’Azun to the south-west held attention.

I descended, steeply, down the south ridge into woodland. Sheltering from the heat there, in the cool of the trees, I was surprised to encounter a group of handsome white horses, looking as if they were stepping out from a fairy-tale. I reached the gate into the reserve to rejoin my outward route south.

My plan was to follow the Tour du Val d’Azun trail (see at https://hautes-pyrenees.ffrandonnee.fr/html/977/grp-val-d-azun) west as far the village of Arcizans-Dessus, and then follow the lane back to the gîte in Gaillagos. What I had not noticed when examining the map (IGN 1647 ET) was that the trail climbed an additional 180 metres before descending to the village. This proved to be rather hot work in the baking heat of a Pyrenean summer afternoon. I was glad to reach the village. There I took a wrong turn, ending up walking along the edge of the busy main road for 400 metres before facing another 100 metres of ascent back to the gîte.

I consumed considerable quantities of delicious peach cordial on arrival.