Distance

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Elevation

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Vertical

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Time

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We set out early, starting from Barclay Lake Trailhead at 4:15am. We followed the abandoned road a short while and found the trail heading up on the right side of a flowing creek. Route finding by headlamp in the darkness was mildly challenging (we only lost the path and had to backtrack once). The trail up is steep as expected. The lower section has a lot of ground cover that goes away under larger trees after climbing about 600 feet. A little route finding was necessary as there seem to be a few tracks leading up/down from the ridge. Once on the ridge, the path is more obvious. The last 100-200 vertical feet that you climb back up the ridge is covered in snow. It was firm, but boots were fine on it. At the bottom of the snow gulley, the path to the summit is all snow. We put on crampons to help us move faster on the firm snow. We reached the gap between the North and South summits quickly. This is where we found the snow wall that is climbed to reach the North summit. The wall was in the shade for our ascent and the snow was nice and firm. It was not that difficult, but be careful as the exposure and consequences of a fall here could be unfavorable. If we had brought a small rope and pickets, we would have used them here. A solid ice axe self-belay was sufficient. Above the snow wall we tracked up steep snow thru trees and around rock (generally heading up and to the left). We left a set of tracks that appeared to go up some rock and opted for traversing farther left on the snow. About 50 feet short of the summit, we scrambled rock to the top. Views on the summit were great and we made it up in 3.5 hours. Expecting the sun to come in contact with the snow wall soon, we didn't stay long and headed down after 10 minutes or so. Back at the snow wall, it started to see some rays of sunlight. Not excited to downclimb the snow wall on softening snow, we set a new route to downclimb further to the west, thru some trees. it was a little steeper in a few short sections, but overall had better fall consequences. Again, a small rope would have been nice to rappel from some of the trees, but solid ice-axe placements were sufficient for self-belay. Below the snow wall, we breaked for a quick snack. We left our crampons on until we got below the snow on the south side of the ridge to make travel easier/faster. Time down was about the same as going up as the descent from the ridge is steep and loose in places. Car-to-car time was 6 hours 40 minutes. This left us plenty of time to enjoy the rest of Independance Day and celebrate a great climb with fireworks in the evening :)

Obstacles

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Key gear

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