Been planning this one for years with my friend Jeb, but theres very little beta on it, so we knew it was going to be an adventure. It did not disappoint! We backpacked in just after sundown, and made it about 5.5 miles and 1200’ of gain in before we decided we were sick of hauling everything on our backs, somewhere around 12:30 at night. The comedic apex of the trip was around 11:45 when we walked around a corner and suddenly heard a dog growling. For whatever reason, I though “BEAR”, and grabbed on to Jeb’s backpack and screamed at the top of my lungs, which prompted him to scream. We then saw the tent and started laughing hysterically. Whoever was in it must have shit their pants, and will probably need some ptsd counseling . Anyway, we went to bed a little after 1, woke up at 3:30 alarm and said “ten more for the back” and repeated that pattern a few more times before finally getting up at 5 to make our bid. Must have been 200 blow down trees covering the trail, so this was an obstacle course, with multiple trails going every direction. Gaia GPS is a god send. We got to Upper Piney Lake just after sunrise, made the crappy scree-filled approach to the saddle, and then sent the Fly! I took a fun class 4 variation right up the ridge, but its possible to keep this an easy class 3 by going to the right of the ridge. After that I put on my route-finding cap and worked my way up to the Spider, keeping it mostly class 3+ with maybe a few class 4 moves. We then descended the saddle ridge and I jumped in Upper Piney to shock my system a bit. Damn was it good!The slog out was rough- about 8 hours including breakdown of camp, filtering water and a quick break to watch a bull moose. Truly amazing, but will probably not be returning to this one! SOLITUDE!

Other peaks climbed on this trip