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"An exciting summit for someone starting out on Trad Climbing.
The route we took was the Standard Route with Mcleod's Variation. It starts with a 15m D grade rock climb up a river gully at the first rock band. We found this pitch very tricky as there was limited placement for protective gear and the gully was turned into a wet small stream. There is a solid single point belay ring to attach to at the top.
Thereafter we deviate right off the Standard Route up Mcleod's Variation which goes up a 10m Chimney at the top rock band after which the summit is reached.
I really enjoyed the chimney. There were 5 solid point to place gear. If you have large cams you will find placement for them but I managed to place gear in the following order: 1 narrow sling in a cracked rock, 2 sling on a fist sized chock-stone, 3 piton in a hole on the right hand side, 4 a permanently wedged piton on the right, 5 broad 120 sling around a large chock-stone finishing off on two permanent belay point anchors on the top.
I'd recommend if you're a beginner at trad like I am to attempt the route in dry conditions at least 2 days after a light rain in order to get up the first pitch ok.
" — CraigBurnsStellenbosch • Oct 4, 2020