"Day started out bluebird and warm...with the warm Spring and permit system coming into effect on Monday...it was probably the busiest day ever on Prusik. Climbing was really good (sort of like Pigeon Spire just shorter). But instead of doing it in 2 hrs...we took 10 hrs waiting on numerous parties ahead of us on each pitch (and more than 10 parties behind us)...Seattle Mtn Club 3 parties of 2 were ahead of us...they even used a prusik at one point on the upper pitch! First pitch went right and up to top. Traversed the ridge and up the slab which was more like a series of face moves for about 10 ft. Next traverse was on south side - nice exposure. Snow for a couple hours melted a bit meaning upper crack corner and flake were a little slick but fun. Rappels were 6 in total (1 rope) to the snow...all webbing. We left Calgary on Thurs after work. Drove the 11 hrs to Leavenworth. Started at Colchuk TR at 4pm and camped at 10:30pm on top of Assgard Pass. Next morning started at 7:30am and moved camp to Inspiration Lake and was at the Prusik base by 10am in a line up of 4 parties ahead of us and 3 parties enroute. Camped at Inspiration Lake Sat night and then walked out the 20km ..." — alexjoseph • Jun 13, 2015