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"Tom Harrison and Richard Stain climbed this peak by the south face, after a bivvy on a snow ledge about 300m below the summit. Then via a prominent rock band, and snow slopes to the east ridge and thus the snow summit. Richard suffered snow blindness on return, spent a second night (and third) night at the bivvy. We believe this was the first ascent. The height is close to 5400m NOT the 4900m shown on this web site. " — richard.stain.3 • Jul 27, 1971