Distance

25.0 km to summit

50.0 km total

Elevation

914 m start

Vertical

3,048 m gain

Time

48 hr 0 min to summit

120 hr 0 min total

Made an attempt on the Emperor Ridge of Mt. Robson from August 5th - August 9th. Reached about 11,900 ft before bailing out at end of day 4 due to being almost out of fuel. Perfect weather throughout the trip but there was an extreme lack of running water on the route and we ended up melting snow and ice for water and cooking from day 2 on. On the first day we hiked up to just shy of Burg Lake and then crossed a braided section of the Robson River. From there we scrambled up about 1000' of scree and bivied on a large ledge. Day two was a full day of fourth and lower fifth class scrambling. Never harder than than 5.3. We didn't rope up except for a long traverse below a cliff band at the end of the day to find a bivy spot with some snow to melt for water. Traversing to find water and then backtracking the next morning probably cost us 3 hours in total. Day three was lower 5th class climbing on very loose limestone and shale and a bit of chimney climbing up to about 5.6. We finished this day near the top of the ice couloire at the top of the Infinite Patience route. Day 4 started with 2 pitches to the top of the Infinite Patience ice couloire followed by a hard 5.7 chimney pitch. This was followed by a few more pitches of steep ice and snow up to the point where the ridge begins flattening out. We had one more rock pitch to climb before the gargoyles but it would probably have been another 8 hours to the summit so with almost no fuel left we made the decision to turn around.

Route name

Emperor Ridge

Obstacles

routefinding, stream crossing, no water source, rockfall/loose rock, snow on route

Key gear

ice axe, crampons, helmet, rope/harness, climbing rack, trekking poles, mountaineering boots, GPS device