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Up North face down West Ridge, 3 day trip. Lots of mosquitoes on the lengthy approach. Not much snow below the glacier so we used the fifth class headwall to access the bivy site, on the way out we were able to downclimb with no rappels. The glacier below the North face had enough snow to bridge many of the crevasses but we still had to weave in and out to avoid holes. The lower glacier didn't have snow and we stepped over many man-sized slots. The North face itself was steep with some short sections of front-pointing - having two axes was very useful. Summit views were pretty spectacular from the highest point in Banff NP! The West ridge descent was straightforward and we plunge-stepped pretty much the whole thing.
road/access issues, routefinding, stream crossing, bushwhacking, rockfall/loose rock, snow on route, avalanche danger, crevasse danger, buggy, weather
ice axe, crampons, helmet, rope/harness, climbing rack, trekking poles, mountaineering boots