14.0 mi to summit

25.3 mi total


344 ft start


7,781 ft gain


24 hr 51 min to summit

23 hr 52 min total

What a great mountain! My friend Jon and I started biking Monday morning up Dosewallips. I used my road bike which wasn't ideal but we made it to the lake Constance trailhead in good time. We found a bush to stash the bikes and started making our way up to the lake. This trail is extreme. We lost it for a bit and ended up getting into steep loose scrambling but made our way back over and down to the proper trail. It wasn't much better though. Steepest maintained trail I had ever "hiked", and instantly regretted bringing extra weight (beer). After struggling getting up, we were stoked to jump in and found a pretty good sized jump into lake Constance. The next morning we left camp around 6 and walked into Avalanche canyon. We hung a right into the south chute which is mostly scree but I found more solid rock on climber's right. At the pass you drop down a bit and head left up more scree, but it soon turns into enjoyable scrambling up to the next pass. From the top of that chute you can spot the summit block, which looked spicy. Continuing to scramble over the path of the least resistance we came to the famous finger traverse. This feature was the main reason I had put off this climb as long as I had with many parties roping it or finding a bypass. Stepping into the traverse was airy but all in all it was easy and fun, very exposed but I don't think you need to rope it. After the finger traverse we caught a good glissade down to the scree slope, another feature that looked crazy but made sense when we got there. Fifteen minutes later we found ourselves at the block, made our way up the back of it and climbed the maybe class 4 to the summit. Beautiful day up there and enjoyed a beverage for a good 40 minutes. We carefully reversed the entire route. I skipped the steep snow bank by scrambling around it but Jon used his crampons up, taking 15 minutes longer. The finger traverse was fogged in on the way back so the photos you can't see the exposure. A nice boot ski down got us to avalanche canyon quickly. The rest of the way home was cruise control. The bikes really paid off on the way down and the road bike held up without me taking any spills. What a great trip and amazing mountain.

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