Our group of 4 set up at upper moraine camp on the evening of the 29th. After an early start the next morning we got to what we thought was the beginning of the direct exum but actually turned out to be, discovering months later, a route called It's not a Chimney,5.9. A bd .75 x4 and his biner companion were hanging out at the base when we arrived along with a fixed stopper with an NPS stamp and possibly the jankiest anchor I've ever seen. We roped up two teams of two for a single wandering alpine feeling pitch and set up at the top of the difficulties below an easy looking lower angle gully. We simulclimbed, although it may be better to solo to keep your rope from knocking rocks down, until we met up near the start of the upper exum on what turned out to be easy 4th class. Still really early in the day we put away our ropes and finished the upper exum ridge solo, to keep with the spirit of the first ascent, arriving at the summit a few minutes before 9AM on a beautiful sunny morning.