"Mostly beautifil day below 12k. Red rocks still had snow to climb in. Above 12k had incredible winds. Near Misery Hill winds strong enough to throw me to the ground. The dip between Shasta and the hill had the winds subside" — Irrationalist • Jun 10, 2022

"May 22, 2022. It was a perfect weather day. We started at 6:40am from Timberline and could see the conga line up on Hogsback and Pearly Gates. Luckily with our timing the masses had dispersed by the time we reached Devils Kitchen. Used two tools and took left PG up and down. Some solid ice ramps have been put in on Hogsback leading to PG. Bergschrund is covered. Cached my skis at 9,000 feet, skied down from there. With James and Jordo. " — runningvegan • May 22, 2022

"May 14, 2022. Started at 3am at Bunny Flat. Reached Helen Lake at sunrise. Wind started up on the final stretch to Helen Lake. Whiteout conditions soon after continuing on from Helen. Seven or so climbers came back down after calling it quits and we continued up. One other climber joined use. Once we reached the base of the Heart conditions cleared up, but the wind gusts continued. Wind funnels blowing ice and gusts that blew us to our knees and pelted us with ice. One other climber was up at the base of Red Banks then she came down and went back up to that area again. We continued to the base of Red Banks and the wind conditions continued. We called it and headed back down. Lots of skiers were headed up from Helen. Lots of guided groups were headed up to Helen. Used microspikes in the morning up to Helen then switched to crampons. " — runningvegan • May 14, 2022

"Shasta summit yesterday via avalanche gulch in a great weather window. Camped at Helen Lake the night prior, which is still completely snow-covered with at least a dozen well-dug snow platforms. Good snow for barebooting up to the heart, then switched to crampons for the rest of the climb. We heard one natural rockfall climbers right of the gulch at about 3 AM. We took the large gully variation up through the red banks climbers left. It was thinly covered with a fair amount of ice at the bottom. Above the red banks and up Misery Hill was mostly thin snow and ice patches with large sections of loose rock. From Misery Hill to the base of the summit block it was well covered. The west side of the summit block was very icy, and probably the crux of the climb yesterday. Snow softened considerably by late morning in yesterdays heat. We opted for a small down climb through a narrow gully skiers left nearest Thumb Rock. Mushy snow made for a quick descent, though human-triggered rockfall became an issue around the heart from climbers above. Below Helen Lake, we found ourselves postholing substantially, and the snow was melting quickly below treeline." — wacbravo • May 4, 2022

"April 2, 2022. Turned around at 1:30pm at 9,735 feet on the top of the loose gully. We were worried about the snow softening up too much on the traverse/climb back from the summit and did not want to be stuck waiting for it to refreeze. Repelled down from where we turned around. Bluebird day with warm weather. An earlier start may have led to a successful summit, we saw one party of two on the summit block. I cashed my skis near the bottom of Hayden and skied down until I hit the trees." — runningvegan • Apr 2, 2022