"Both ascent and descent routed from south side. Day 1: Start from bridge nearby city of Laza on left bank of Damiraparancay. Along the river to Mucuq waterfall (alt.1650m). Day 2: From waterfall short descent back to river and after 150m sharp turn to right (east). Walk through meadow and lond ascend to pass with lake (alt. ca. 2900m). Whole route was following paths created by local shepards and thousands of steps of their cattle along the history. Day 3: From lake (water used by cattle, source of drinking water is just below the pass) to east and than north to summit of Kumur (alt. 3226m). This climb is quite sharp and can reach 40 degrees. Surface is partly covered by into small pieces broken slate - risk of slide. Descend under Tufan's south ridge itself. Nice place to stay is in saddle with four pilars made of stacked stones (alt. ca. 3060m). Water is on left (east) side downwards to the quite narrow ravine. The water source was mostly melting snow during our visit. Day 4: restday Day 5: Summit (4192m) and back. Keep just on the ridge (width tens of meters). However the route is easy to read it is important to choose safe way through short stony passages. Very short cli..." — lukas-kohut • Jul 5, 2015