"Great weekend conditions today for a summit! Took the one o clock Couloir variation which was very narrow. Some light breezes at the summit were a great reward for the climb. Climbing routes are limited this year. The pearly gates are all but impassable without two tools and some ice experience. That pushes everyone over to the Old Chute which means people raining ice down on you during ascent and descent. Thankfully nothing could keep the vibes down today and topped out 4:30 hours from parking lot to summit!" — oregon-mt-goat • Mar 30, 2024

"Sometimes when you start a climb at 3am, breaking the trail through 6-8” of new snow is too much. Should have waited two hours and followed the ants up the hill that used my boot track. Stopped at Devils Kitchen since the upper mountain was still in early season conditions and not inviting. Try again next month. " — oregon-mt-goat • Feb 10, 2024

"February 3, 2024. Turned back at the 6 foot ice step in left PG. James cleared the step out and tried to climb it, but could not get a firm hold with his right tool to pull up safely. We thought about trying the right gate or doing Old Chute instead, but down climbing was very taxing. Excellent skiing conditions above Palmer. My first time skiing down from Devils Kitchen. With James. " — runningvegan • Feb 3, 2024

"June 11, 2023. Nice day for a summit. Cached my skies just above Palmer. Solid boot pack. Up and down 1 o’clock couloir. Booted back down and cruised down on the skies. With Ryan. " — runningvegan • Jun 11, 2023

"April 29, 2023. Skinned up to 9,200 feet and cached my skis. Transitioned into crampons took PG left up and down. Excellent conditions. Time to Palmer 1:28. Time to summit 4:13. With James and Ryan. " — runningvegan • Apr 29, 2023

"February 11, 2023. Second Hood summit. Started at 6:45am, skinned up to Palmer and not far above Palmer I transitioned into crampons because of the ice. Nice boot pack on Hogsback, a few people went up Old Chute. Most people, myself included, went up right PG. Bergschrund was fine to step over, there was a shallow hole, possibly where someone punched through before the last storm. Right PG conditions were variable, some very icy areas with no steps, some loose snow areas, a couple of squeeze points to pull up/climb over. At times it was difficult to maintain three points of contact. Definitely full winter conditions. Descended via Old Chute. The cat walk was sketchy, my first time doing Old Chute. Okay steps in some areas for Old Chute, snow was softening up and it was a mix of solid ice and loose snow. Most people descended via Old Chute. Carried my skies down a little bit from Devils Kitchen. Icy chicken heads really sucked. Coming down the groomed trails was a blast. " — runningvegan • Feb 11, 2023

"May 22, 2022. It was a perfect weather day. We started at 6:40am from Timberline and could see the conga line up on Hogsback and Pearly Gates. Luckily with our timing the masses had dispersed by the time we reached Devils Kitchen. Used two tools and took left PG up and down. Some solid ice ramps have been put in on Hogsback leading to PG. Bergschrund is covered. Cached my skis at 9,000 feet, skied down from there. With James and Jordo. " — runningvegan • May 22, 2022

"Up leuthold couloir today. Left the parking lot at 4:45, up at Palmer by 6:35 then took a left up and over illumination rock saddle to Reid glacier. Bottom of the chute at 7:30, some light ice fall from the wind but no rock thankfully. Got to Amen shoulder 3 hours later after a long slog in great snow conditions. Ran the summit apex over to the high point to finish at 11:15. Retreated through the pearly gates, hogsback, and down the regular route. Fantastic to experience a new route up the mountain and still achieve the summit. " — oregon-mt-goat • Feb 25, 2022

"February 13, 2022. First time attempting Hood. South side approach up Hogsback and stopped at bergschrund. Conditions were very icy. Several parties reported on the icy conditions of Pearly Gates. The stiffest boots I have are my fire boots which I was wearing with my crampons and I had two strait ice axes. Needed solid boots and curved tools to climb Pearly Gates or Old Chute to safely toe up and then get back down. With James. " — runningvegan • Feb 13, 2022

"With Dale and Travis. Went up with Brad from Timberline Mountain Guides. Snow cat ride up most of ski area, so we started at roughly 8000ft. Smooth climb up to hogsback and then up the old chutes (“12:30” couloir). Over the ridge to the summit, back across the catwalk and down the old chutes. Issue free climb down. Great day!" — andrewmadsen • Jun 4, 2021