I avoided the normal route due to reports of crevasses (I soloed the peak). I went straight toward the peak from the col just wnw of San Jose Norte, losing about 1,300 feet on the way to my final high camp at 16,700'. It is a good way to go if you are soloing as there really are no crevasses, but you definitely do need crampons and an ax. The route is easy, but the peak is big and high! I spent 5 nights total for the approach, climb, and descent.